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Messages - DavidM

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CampLite Truck Campers / Re: battery Group size
« on: August 28, 2019, 05:54:58 PM »
It was a dealer item, but most Camplites were delivered with an Interstate Group 24, the smallest (and cheapest) of the full size batteries. That one is 60-65 AHs capacity.

If I wanted to go bigger I would use a Group 31 AGM battery with about 100 AHs of capacity. Why an AGM; they are double the cost of FLAs? Well because I don't trust any FLA (other than GCs) to be a true deep cycle battery with heavy plates, more room for acid over and below the plates, fill caps, etc. For AGMs those issues don't matter.

The next step would be two GC2 golf cart batteries wired in series. All GC batteries are deep cycle.

Any more than that and you need a generator.


General Q & A / Re: Adding solar panel to 21 BHS 2018
« on: August 28, 2019, 01:31:54 PM »
I am not sure that the roof is the best place for a solar panel on an RV. Do you always camp in sunny spots? If so ok, but most who boondock (which is where you would need solar) camp in shady spots. Merlin on the aluminumcamperforum and a friend of mine both installed portable panels that work well for them. These let you move the panels to follow the shade.

But if you want to install them on the roof, ok. I would use thickened epoxy to glue the mounting brackets to the aluminum roof if that is what you have. If you have the elastomer roof, I don't know. Maybe screw through the elastomer to the subroof.

Running the cable is another problem with a roof installation. Maybe through an existing item on the roof like the antenna or fan and down inside of the wall down to below the floor where you can run it to a controller near your battery.

In one of the newsletters on the aluminumcamperforum I wrote an article about how to install a portable 100-200 watt solar panel system which should be plenty for most users needs. Note that the article first tries to talk you out of solar by installing bigger batteries first  ;).


General Q & A / Re: Quicksilver 8.1 wheel bearing maintenance
« on: August 27, 2019, 03:07:35 PM »
Wheel bearing grease from your local auto parts store.


General Q & A / Re: Quicksilver 8.1 wheel bearing maintenance
« on: August 27, 2019, 01:29:02 PM »
If that end cap isn't removable, and it looks like on the top it is but on the side it isn't (the pic seems to show that it is on a bit crooked), then remove the wheel. Also your end cap looks like it is a metal snap on whereas some are rubber. The zerk fitting should be obvious with the wheel removed. If no zerk fitting then you have to manually pack the bearing with grease.

See the attached pic of the wheel removed with a grease gun attached to the zerk fitting.


General Q & A / Re: Quicksilver 8.1 wheel bearing maintenance
« on: August 27, 2019, 06:21:18 AM »
If the hub of each bearing has a black rubber plug insert on the end then you have grease gun greaseable bearings. Pop off the rubber plug and you will see a zerk fitting inisde. Use a grease gun with a wheel bearing grease cartridge and pump grease until the spring gets compressed and grease leaks around the edges inside. That is all it takes.

If you don't have this type of bearing, let us know. I greased lots of bearings that way several decades ago can help you with that. But I think almost all modern campers have grease gun bearings.


Equipment / Re: Top audio for deep in the bush!
« on: August 20, 2019, 10:53:01 AM »
Remind me not to camp near you!!!


CampLite Travel Trailers / Re: A-frame bent?
« on: August 17, 2019, 12:36:09 PM »
I think that the 16DBS has a central member that goes aft from the coupler, past the front of the unit's cabin all the way aft to about midships (how about that nautical terminology!!), as my 16TBS does. If so sight along it and it should be straight all the way aft.

If it is bent then I wouldn't try to straighten it but I would strengthen the central member with angle aluminum welded from the coupler aft past the cabin so it doesn't bend more. The cabin is the fulcrum and the point of the highest stress along the members.


Open Discussion Area / Re: How to dispose of?
« on: July 18, 2019, 06:11:36 AM »
Well, I think that disposal items in a private bin are the same as in your garbage can that you put out on the street to get picked up. It all probably ends up at the same place. No liquids or hazardous materials like mercury containing batteries.

In our town in Connecticut it is fairly easy to take bulky items to the town transfer station. If you are a local resident just pick up a free id card at town hall and then take your load to the dump which is located a few miles from town.


There should be a sticker on the axle giving its model number and weight rating. If it really is a 2,500 lb rated single axle on a 16TBS then take it back to the dealer, park it on his lot until LL replaces that axle. The dry weight of the 16TBS was approximately 3,000 lbs. The GVWR of the single axle 16TBS was about 4,000 lbs. It would take at least a 3,600 lb rated single axle to carry that weight.

Also check your tire rating. They should be about 2,000 lbs each.


I am a little confused. Do you have tandem axles or not. A single axle with a rating of 2,500 lbs won't carry a 16 TBS. So here are my answers for a tandem axle trailer:

So, to my questions:

  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can it be that the "dry" weight of the trailer exceeds that number by 870 lbs.?

This question doesn't make any sense with tandem axles.

  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can the gross vehicle weight rating be 4,842 lbs.?

Gross vehicle weight is generally axle ratings x2 = 5,000 lbs or tire rating x 4 plus 10% for tongue weight

  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can the manufacturer put a sticker (as required by law) on the trailer stating that "the weight of cargo should never exceed 2,250 lbs."?

Cargo load is GVW less trailer dry weight.

  • If this were your trailer, what would you consider a maximum & safe weight to tow?

Probably tire rating x 4 or axle rating x2, whichever is lower. Forget the +10% for tongue weight.


QuickSilver Tent Campers / Re: battery hook up troubleshooting
« on: July 10, 2019, 07:38:12 PM »
Hello- We are new owners of a 2014 quicksilver 10 and have used it a few times so far.  I've made sure the battery is charged,  but the lights and fans don't work when attach the battery to the cables.  They work when the trailer is hooked up to a power supply  however.  Any insight would be appreciated.

If the lights work when connected to 110V power then the converter with its breakers/fuses is working fine. The converter is the DC distribution source for the entire trailer. So it is very likely you have a bad connection between the battery and the converter. Disconnect the battery cable and measure the voltage between black and red with a multimeter with the trailer plugged in to power. You probably will get zero which confirms the bad connection. Make sure you don't touch red to black or red to the chassis or you will get a big spark!!

It is possible that a PO installed a fuse near the battery (a good thing!) so also check for a blown fuse. Also bad connections can be sneaky. I hooked up my battery after sitting in my garage on a trickle charger all winter and nothing would work. Turned out it was a corroded ring teminal connection to the battery terminal. Scraped it down to bare metal and it worked fine.


CampLite Travel Trailers / Re: Livin Lite fifth wheels
« on: June 27, 2019, 03:49:54 PM »
I am pretty sure that the LL fifth wheel campers had aluminum roofs, but they did have steel frames at least for the base perimeter. Steel is easier to fabricate and is stronger than aluminum, but a bit heavier than aluminum for equivalent strength. But it does require good welding and given the rash of aluminum frame weld cracks, maybe steel really is better for camper frames.


General Q & A / Re: Towing w/ Full Fresh Water Tank (14DBS)
« on: June 04, 2019, 03:40:52 PM »
My 2013 16 TBS has three 1/4" x 2" aluminum straps that support the weight of the water tank. They really just support at the outside bottom corners of the tank as that aluminum won't support any weight in its middle. But the tank looks strong enough itself to carry the load and if the straps themselves are attached securely at the frame, I think it will be ok full of water.

But towing with 1/4 full is safer.


General Q & A / Re: Towing w/ Full Fresh Water Tank (14DBS)
« on: May 30, 2019, 11:08:51 PM »
I try to travel with the water tanks 1/4 full or less and fill up at the campground. It probably can take the weight of a full tank, but.....


Yes, but it requires removing the motor from the gear rack and pushing the slider in manually. Then if you are going to trailer it you have to block it from sliding out when you go around a sharp corner. There is a video for this here:,66.0.html

So unless you are stuck in some place far from a battery source, replacing the battery was probably easier.

Did you try hooking it up to the TV while it is running? That should have provided enough juice to run the slide back in even with a dead battery. You would probably have to let the TV run in idle for a half hour to build up some charge on the dead battery. Otherwise all of the TV's juice would be sucked up by the dead battery.


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