Weight Distributing Hitches

Started by tinkeringtechie, January 07, 2017, 05:03:05 PM

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What is the Livin Lite policy on weight distributing hitches? I've seen everything from "don't use it, they void your warranty" to "as long as you don't drill any holes in the frame", but I don't remember the factory ever chiming in. It would be nice to get a recommendation from the factory on WDH.


I am interested to have sn answer on this. I currently don't use one
2014 Ford Escape
2016 Ford F150 XTR 2.7l ecoboost  4x4
2015 Camplite 13QBB
2018 Camplite 21BHS (on order)


There are two methods of installing them, one requires drilling into the frame and the other around the frame. Not that a failure has ever occurred to my knowledge with the through the frame method but I would
assume the preferred method would be to avoid any possible weakening of the frame by not altering the frame. Your dealer will be able to assist with proper selection for your specific tow vehicle and travel trailer setup.


So both methods are supported (neither will void the warranty) and you stand behind the dealer recommendations?


I would have your dealer contact our warranty service department prior to the installation.  The reason I mentioned both types if installation is because any holes drilled in the frame will weaken the frame.
We utilize double hollow tube in our frame construction for increased strength which would need to be taken into consideration if any drilling was done in the frame.  The ones I have personally seen on our trailers did not modify nor drill holes.   


My previous trailer was a Camplite 28 bhs and I used a hitches around the frame. It was very stable with my GMC pickup.

The hitches brand was: Husky Model: ERD12004.

You can find the new model at http://www.huskytow.com/product/husky-centerline-ts/



That article is a little misleading as most hitches that it covers are rated at up to 1,000 lbs tongue weight.

But (except for the Andersen- more below) you want to match your hitch to your tongue weight. The reason is if you put a 1,000 lb hitch (which means its torsion bars produce enough weight transfer to be suitable for 1,000 lbs of hitch weight) on a 500 lb rated car (and trailer) frame you can stress the frame when you go over a dip. When you do this it causes the torsion bars to put even more force on the frame attachments. Given that the aluminum LL frame is, well light this isn't a good idea.

Most WDHs are available in varying tongue weight ratings, 600 lbs being the lowest. That rating will work for almost all  LL campers.

Now for the Andersen hitch. It is built entirely differently from torsion bar WDHs and its weight transfer is based on how many turns you turn the tightening nut not on the stiffness of the torsion bars on those units. It is limited in its ability to transfer weight forward due to its design. But it does have good sway control.