Tc11 solar

Lcvannote · March 24, 2017, 01:13:33 PM

Hello,
I own a 2014 tc11. I would like to add solar to the roof. I see that they now offer a solar pre wire on new units. How are these wired, where do the pierce the roof and where do the run the wires? Are there recommended locations for the solar z mounts?
Thanks. Lynn

chappy133 · March 24, 2017, 07:23:20 PM

We did not roof mount our solar panel. We park the camper in the shade and use the 40' of wire to put the panel out in the sun. If you mount to the roof you will need to hit the frame when screw the brackets in. My recommendation is not to put screws in your roof and just put the panel out on the ground.

DavidM · March 24, 2017, 08:28:51 PM

Quote from: chappy133 on March 24, 2017, 07:23:20 PM
We did not roof mount our solar panel. We park the camper in the shade and use the 40' of wire to put the panel out in the sun. If you mount to the roof you will need to hit the frame when screw the brackets in. My recommendation is not to put screws in your roof and just put the panel out on the ground.

+1!!

We rarely spot our camper in the sun. Even 40' of cable often won't find sun for long. That is the big problem with solar unless you camp in the desert a lot.

Another approach is to carry along a second battery and place it and the panel in the sun wherever you can find it. Then swap it out with the one on your trailer when fully charged. A rig like that is also easy to move to follow the sun during the day.

David

7thunders · March 25, 2017, 10:07:57 AM

We have a 16DBS, 2017 picked up in November.
Here is the Zamp Solar Plug in for solar panels. WE didn't rec'v any information on operation of the solar, so I"m not sure what to expect should we purchase a solar panel. Will it connect right to battery? or will it run through the electrical system and then off to battery for charging ?
But I will be tempted to purchase a panel (with control boxneeded??) in the future

Rob

DavidM · March 25, 2017, 11:40:01 AM

I thnk that Dan Miller, or someone who knows, told us that LL simply purchases (or is given) the Zamp plug and it is wired to the DC system at the converter. You can buy a Zamp pigtail on Amazon or eBay, wire your own solar panel to it and plug it in. You will have to install a controller preferably near the plug. Maybe the plug is mounted so that its inside terminals are in a cabinet that is accessible. In that case you just wire the controller between the plug and the existing wire.

You can rig your own solar panel this way for 1/3 the cost of a Zamp system using readily available components from Amazon or eBay.

David

Lcvannote · September 08, 2017, 03:09:42 PM

Well I got 4 panels glued to the roof. I ended up drilling through the roof in the space between the cabinet and where the tv is mounted. The 4 panels had the 4 deep cycle AGM batteries charged by 1pm each day while in Utah. I was able to fit the 4 batteries in the battery compartment.

DavidM · September 08, 2017, 05:01:38 PM

What size wire did you use? Did you wire to the Zamp plug? And where did you put the controller and what type?

The reason I ask is that four panels, of maybe 100 watts each will produce a lot of amps and result in a big voltage drop if you don't use big wire.

David

Lcvannote · September 13, 2017, 03:48:18 PM

I used 10' of 6ga fine strand wire. I'm an EE so I did it to spec. I used the Bogart controller and monitor. There is no zamp as this is a 2013 so i used an AM solar junction box on the roof. The monitor display is mounted above the tank heater switches. There is enough room left in the battery box for a 2k inverter and the required disconnects and fuses. Yes they are 100amp panels and they are glued to the roof per the AM Solar instructions.

DavidM · September 13, 2017, 06:11:10 PM

Sounds like a very solid installation.

For others reading, four 100 amp panels will produce about 24 amps of DC feeding a MPPT controller. You will lose part of your panel's output due to voltage drop if the wire gauge is too small. In this case #6 gauge would limiit the voltage drop to about 0.3 V over a 15' run to the controller. Then from the controller to the batteries the current will be even higher, maybe 30 A due to the MPPT controller doing its thing. In this case you want the voltage drop to be even lower, just a few tenths so the three stage charging algorithm in the controller will work ok.

So, it will take #6 gauge to make this installation work well, which is what the OP used.

If others are using the Zamp connector, it typically comes with #10 pigtails which for large panel installations such as this one, is too small.

David

Biewers on the go · October 02, 2017, 11:25:02 PM

Quote from: Lcvannote on September 08, 2017, 03:09:42 PM
Well I got 4 panels glued to the roof. I ended up drilling through the roof in the space between the cabinet and where the tv is mounted. The 4 panels had the 4 deep cycle AGM batteries charged by 1pm each day while in Utah. I was able to fit the 4 batteries in the battery compartment.

What brand of panels did you use, where did you get them, and about how much were they if you don't mind telling us? Another thing, I just saw something on You tube today that I didn't get a chance to check out, and it was about gluing on flexible solar panels to the top of the RV, are yours the flexible ones too?

I am looking to run my A/C unit, and other things too, or at least my Super Fan and maybe my laptop or the TV if possible and I will be boon docking it. I have the A/C unit that can be run by a 2000 Generator, I can't think of the other terminology regarding the generator, but I don't want the weight and noise that go with a generator when I am camping.

Thanks,
Rayne

DavidM · October 03, 2017, 10:59:18 AM

For most boondock campers solar is overkill. Two golf cart batteries wired in series will cover your electrical needs for about a week as long as you don't need A/C (which you can't practically do anyway with batteries).

David

Biewers on the go · November 02, 2017, 09:48:58 PM

Quote from: DavidM on October 03, 2017, 10:59:18 AM
For most boondock campers solar is overkill. Two golf cart batteries wired in series will cover your electrical needs for about a week as long as you don't need A/C (which you can't practically do anyway with batteries).

David

DavidM, Seriously, why on earth would you say it was overkill if I would have to use a generator if I did not have the equivalent in Solar? I'm confused? I want to be able to run at minimum my roof vent van in hot weather, my furnace when it is chilly out, and my refrigerator is an electric start. I also only have a Micro/convection oven combo now as this is what is being installed in all the newer TC's too. Those will use up a lot of battery if they even run off the battery which I do not happen to think they do.

Also, We never heard back on what brand of panels he used and if they were the flexible ones or not too. Why wasn't that system overkill for him DavidM? I curious. Thanks,
Rayne

Lcvannote · May 15, 2018, 09:04:10 AM

Sorry for the late reply. The panels are eco-worthy 100 watt. I used 4950 vhb tape and dicor to glue them down with 6 z brackets per panel. the controller and battery monitors are from bogart. The batteries are cabelas 31 agm. I used 10ga from the panels to the junction box on the roof and 4ga from there to the controller. Some may think this is overkill we camp in areas with little sun and have to have enough to power the cpap and lights for at least a few days. The battery compartment contains the batteries, controller, disconnect and a 2000w inverter. Upgrades for this year are a 2500 watt generator and air conditioner soft start. Most parts were purchased on Amazon.