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I assume you are referring to the freshwater tank.  There's a valve you open under the fresh water tank. The freshwater tank is the white/opaque one.    You will likely have to scoot under the camper a bit.

Assuming you do not have an instant water heater, there's bolt/anode rod you remove, accessible from the outside behind the wh pannel.

You should determine what kind of water heater you have and find the manual .The camper should have originally come with manuals for the camper and all appliances.  If they've been lost most are available online. LL manuals are at: https://www.livinlite.com/owners-manuals/

I had a local KZ dealer do some work for me (seal wheel wells).  Probably helped that I had it done in Feb.   Depending on where you live, you may be approaching the busiest time of year for your local dealers.  If so, it can be tough scheduling warranty work for units they did not sell, regardless of which brand it is.   I'd be calling all KZ dealers nearby.   You may have more luck calling to the north where they may be a few weeks behind you as far as camping season goes.

Anyone in our community actually have a dedicated 12v outlet for recharging your tech gadgets? I'm curious if Livin Lite just skipped this feature altogether.

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that more than half the owners have installed additional 12v outlets.

Checkout aluminumcamperforurm.com if you have not already.  Most of the action here went there when LL was shutting down - lots of mods to read about.  Facebook group also has activity but more mods/technical stuff on aluminum camper forum.

Most RV mattresses are crap.  A 3-4" varying density memory foam topper usually works for us.   After some mega humidity and a couple days of rain in FL this Jan we added an air flow layer below.  From what I have read it's been popular in the boating community for many years and is catching on in the RV community.  https://www.mattressinsider.com/mattress-condensation-prevention.html

... I guess it might happen while driving at night with lights on where the combined draw was too much for the alternator. ...

I typically drive with the lights on, so yes, the lights were probably on.  And I didn't think it should happen either, but to our dismay, it did. Newish truck too.  Happened when I shut the truck off while we were setting up.  Fortunately the guy next to us had a jump pack and it started right up.  I left the engine run while we setup, then took a drive to fill up the tank and the next morning it started right up.  Nice guy next store even left his jump pack under his 5th wheel all night just in case we needed it when he was not available.  I always carry a jump pack now.

After learning what you have in your rig, I suggest googling 'rv battery charging'.  There are tons of blog posts/articles out there.

The paperwork you received with your camper may have a sheet that provides model numbers and serial numbers for all of your accessories.

FWIW, if the draw from your camper is higher than the charge from your truck, you can draw down the battery of your tow vehicle.  I discovered this once years ago (different camper) when I arrived someplace after an 8hr drive with a dead truck battery.  The camper batteries were probably low from boondocking and the 3-way fridge was apparently left on 12v elec rather than propane.

Realized I hadn't updated this thread... I brought my LL into a KZ dealer a couple of weeks ago and it was fixed on warranty.  Charged directly to KZ.   They removed wheel(s) saw some gaps and filled them up.  Haven't 'tested' it, but the smell of caulk/silicone/whatever inside the camper when I picked it up was an indicator that there were some gaps. Will spray some water back up there when it warms up to test.

Speaking of condensation... We noticed some condensation for the first time under the mattress while in FL for a few weeks in Jan.  Did some research and lots of folks recommend this stuff to increase air flow and minimize condensation. Ordered some and it has arrived but we have not tried it out yet.

https://www.mattressinsider.com/mattress-condensation-prevention.html

Most RV mattresses are lousy.  Many folks just add a memory foam topper that can easily be cut to size.  Some folks tell their dealer to keep the mattress when they buy a new RV and order one they know they like.  We've added foam toppers to numerous RVs.  Now cheap and easy to get on Amazon. 

I have 2016 CL21RBS and just returned from 3+ weeks in FL.  We had trailered 4-5 hours in heavy rain one day and for the first time got some water in around wheel-well under the slide and some appeared to come from under the fridge (wheel well extends in there as well.)

Believe it or not this is the first real issue that I have had with the camper.   We have used it a lot and it has been outstanding quality wise.

I bought it new in April last year (in IN as a leftover) so it is still on warranty.  I have the option of having it looked at by a dealer.   A tad nervous about having a dealer without any knowledge of LL's make things worse.

Pics show a little water after spraying up into wheel well with hose to test after we got home.

A salesman pressured you to close the deal immediately??? Shocking! 

He may be right though that your average salesman (with limited knowledge) would consider a LL an orphan which would make it harder to sell to Joe general public.

I have faith however that there are enough people out there who will appreciate the long term value of an all aluminum camper.   You'll just need to target buyers who understand camper construction.   This is who I would sell to anyway, so the fact that some random salesman doesn't know what a LL is doesn't bother me.

When I heard LL was shutting down, I immediately started to search for the exact year/model I wanted (new or used) before they were gone.   I eventually found a (very) left over 800 miles away and bought it.

PS: I just returned from a 3+ week 3300 mile trip with my CL21RBS.  I was filling up at a gas station and some random dude in a truck was admiring my camper.  He knew about Camplites and the all aluminum construction.  He did NOT know that Thor recently shut them down and was very disappointed.  He had planned purchasing one within the next year,

Thanks for the input!
Now, I'm confused... dealer is telling me it is all aluminum
Yet what I'm reading here a 2017 has rubber roof and a laminate floor?
Is there any way I can tell what I'm getting by looking at the unit or feeling the floor?
It has a front that is clearly aluminum halfway down, the upper part is same as sides —- smooth —- but no idea what It is....any halo appreciated.
Thanks, stasia

If you post a picture of the roof (have dealer provide ladder), inside, outside, and the underside of the trailer, we can probably tell you what it is made out of.   

The dealer may not be intentionally misleading you.  It's just as likely they just don't know any better.  Salesman are often very good at sounding authoritative when they actually have very little evidence to support their opinions.   

If it is/was an actual LL dealer - they SHOULD know what changes were made in each year.

Sad, but these days, with just about every purchase I make, I go in assuming that I am going to know more about the product than the salesman.  I'm pleasantly surprised when that is not the case.

not on warranty?

Thanks nhlakes..   That's amazing. But page 51 says fiberglass exterior? ...

Hence my comment about manufacturing changing post Thor.  I think early 2016 models were the last all aluminum exterior (roof/walls/floor).  A 2013 is definitely all aluminum. 

PS: Much of the conversation here moved to aluminumcamperforum.com awhile back.

Manufacturing processed changed in the Thor years. Here are some details on how things were made at some point in 2017.   A year or so earlier they all had aluminum roof/floor/walls.  I have a 2016 CL21RBS that was made in late 2015 and has alum roof/floor/walls with vinyl over the alum floor and some wood trim on the cabinets.

https://www.livinlite.com/brochures/2017/Livin-Lite-Plant-Tour-2017.pdf