Messages

How about including a price?

Many sellers seem to want to play cute and hope a potential buyer calls so that the seller can tell them how great the camper is before they have to divulge the price. Or maybe they try to act cuter and plan ask the caller what they want to pay. The later strategy will get you no where and the former strategy will result in a lot of wasted time.

Post a price. If it is too high, you probably won't get any calls. Then maybe adjust the price  .

David

It probably failed to light and shut off. You can try again, but maybe purging the gas system would work better. You probably have a propane stove. Does it work? If you haven't used it yet on this trip then try lighting it. It may take 10-20 seconds to purge all of the air out before it lights. Then if it lights then try the furnace again. If the stove won't light, then maybe you are out of propane.

David

As you note, that cracked weld is in a critical area where the stresses are highest. I wouldn't take delivery of a trailer like that.

David

The Furrion connector may or may not be proprietary, but Amazon has adapters to fit anything so don't think that since you have a Furrion port, you have to use Furrion equipment.

Here is my take on suitcase solar panel systems:

They obviously include a panel, some folding some just a single panel. There isn't much difference in quality in solar panels. Folding panels are more expensive because someone had to package a couple of panels together. Single panels are cheap if bought independently of a suitcase package.

Almost all suitcase packages include a charge controller and almost all are made in China. This is where it is a crap shoot. Some Chinese stuff is good, some will fail almost immediately. You pay your money and you take your chance.

The best bang for the buck is a 100 watt panel, either rigid or flexible, purchased on Amazon or eBay, $100 for rigid, $180 for flexible. Combine that with a Morningstar PWM controller for $60-80 and some wire and you have a suitcase package for half or less of a packaged system.

David

No idea about the switch. Dont have one on mine.

David

Sorry, I didn't recognize the CLTC11 model number and didn't realize we were talking about a truck camper.

I strongly suspect that the red wire is the positive connection to the battery and the white wire is negative which connects to the battery as well as the frame of the camper. This is bad wiring practice BTW and should go to the converter, not the frame, but LL was never one for good wiring practices. Yes the color coding is wrong, but reread the previous sentence ;-).

You can probably confirm the foregoing by hooking up a meter to the red and white wires and plugging into shore power. The converter should power those wires and you should read 13 or so volts when shore power is connected. If not check the main fuse in the converter panel. Maybe it is blown due to the red wire touching ground.

Hopefully someone will post a pic of the battery compartment for the CLT11. But here is a video of a CLT8.6 showing the slide out battery compartment at about 4:30- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmTz9xGXZ68.  And at 5:00 or so you can see red and white wires inside, which are probably the same as what you have. But I have no clue if it is the same as yours.

If the meter test above works, then I would just hook up a battery to those wires and you should be in business.

David

First of all, I think you are confusing "inverter" with "converter". An inverter is a device that produces AC from a DC battery source. A converter is a device that takes AC and converts it to DC for running DC appliances from shorepower and charging batteries. Very few campers have inverters, so I suspect you are talking about a converter.

Secondly it is bad practice to operate DC appliances from a converter without a battery hooked up. A battery acts like a flywheel and smooths out DC pulses created by turning appliances on and off.

Since your camper had a battery at one time, it probably has the wiring for it underneath the front behind the tongue. The two wires go from the front back to the converter input terminals where they can power DC appliances with no shore power hooked up. Take a look at this pic of a CL 11FK's front end with the battery in place- https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2015-Livin--Lite-CAMPLITE-11FK-5004044947

This is where your battery should go just in back of the LPG tank. If the battery box is gone they are available on Amazon and should bolt to the tongue and its cross bracing. So get a battery box and a group 24 deep cycle battery and hook it up to the wiring in the front of the camper. Put a 30 amp fuse in a fuse holder like this one in the red positive lead near the battery- https://www.amazon.com/Line-Blade-Holder-10AWG-strands/dp/B06XS833Q5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536078169&sr=8-3&keywords=blade+fuse+holder+10awg

But also why did the old battery overheat. Did it boil out all of its water. If so why.

David

Well, it could be because Living Lite stopped making new campers earlier this year. Dealers are selling whatever stock they may have on hand. There won't be any more.

So you may have to look far and wide to find what you want new or look at the used market.

David

I have towed our 2013 16TBS with a Nissan Pathfinder which probably has 2/3 the tow rating of your Ram 1500 and never was bothered with sway. So try it, I doubt that you will need a WDH or sway control.

The only water we have gotten in ours is from rain water on the road spraying up into the camper through unsealed cracks in the wheel wells. Remove the wheels and caulk with a flexible caulk if the cracks are small. But ours were pretty big so I used a foam sealant.

There used to be a FB page but I suspect it is now dormant. But there is another LL oriented private forum at aluminumcamperforum.com

Enjoy your camper!!

David

If the ground lug on the outlet is grounded to the generator chassis, that is all that you need. But Hondas don't usually connect that ground. So check with an ohm meter from the ground lug to the metal chassis to ensure continuity.

David

Conratulations! That is probably one of the last of the Scott Tuttle era that was built with an aluminum floor, roof and sides which IMO makes it one of the best. Enjoy!!

David

Google it. Dometic has manuals on line for every A/C that they sell. Don't know about Maxxair. It is a fan right? Can't be that complicated.

David

I think that ADR is absolutely right. I wouldn't install an axleless suspension without first welding a heavy aluminum member in between the outer frame rails to withstand the twisting forces.

David

So with everything unplugged from the outlets it trips. Then with all circuit breakers turned off it still trips. That means you have a fault (a short or partial connection between two wires) from the neutral to the ground or a partial connection from the hot to the ground. It doesn't take much, like less than 20 ma of current to trip a GFCI.

And it isn't easy for an amateur to diagnose the problem other than the simple tests you have made. I would get an RV electrician to find the problem and correct it.

David

First off, 12V power is a very poor choice to run the refrigerator with. It pulls a lot of current and as you note, runs the batteries down fast. Use LPG instead.

Your TV may not be charging due to the lack of a fuse to enable it. Many new TVs come with no fuse in that spot. Look for a 30 amp fuse that enables TV charging somewhere in your TV's fuse block.

How do you know that shore power is over charging your batteries? Are they boiling water, getting hot or what other symptom are you seeing?

David