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Messages - PDX David

Upgrades and Modifications / Radio Replacement
December 05, 2021, 02:14:26 PM
One of the things I was never happy with was the factory installed radio in my CL LivinLite 16TBS: DRIVE Model EEDV06  Primary complaint was inability to store preset stations.  It also failed once, but manufacturer replaced with little hassle.

I just swapped it out with a Jensen JWM60A:

And when I say "swapped" - it literally was a perfect match for size in the mounting hole and cabinet cavity. Even the mounting screw holes lined up!  I reused the existing wiring harness and all works fine. The Jensen does have capability for a sub-woofer, so if that's in your plans then you would probably need to use the supplied wiring harness.

Installation tips: It didn't come with mounting screws and existing ones are too big to fit under mounting plate, so use flat head wood screws. Also, I spent the most time of the whole project prying the end panels off the unit to get to the screw holes. Knife blade and patience.


Quote from: Earth Canary on August 08, 2021, 04:14:30 PM
Does anyone know where to get the replacement parts for the Exterior shower and snap-in connector w/door for a 2014 Camplite Livin'Lite 13 BHB?  Both of my lines have started dripping inside the interior box. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

I recently replaced my valve and faucet with this one from Amazon (not sure if it's the right one for your rig):

Mine had developed a hairline crack after apparently freezing last winter - even though I had flushed the lines with air. What I learned from this experience is that it isn't enough to leave just the faucet knobs open, but one should also insert a fitting into the quick-release hose connection that will ensure air flow during the winter.  And then I discovered the quick release female fitting on the new faucet wouldn't work with the one on my hose that worked on the old faucet. I gave up after trying different air compressor style fittings I had on hand and got an adaptor and put a garden hose male (so air will flow during the winter) quick release on it. I also had to refit my hose but now I'm in control.

To access the gear/knob(?) to manually move the slide you need to remove the metal step cover below the seating area. In anticipation of having to do this some day, I bought the necessary size nut driver and ratchet to remove the nuts holding mine. They are tiny and not easy to do without the right tools.  If you search this forum I believe someone posted photos of this in the past which is where I gained this knowledge.

Also, the electronics for the slide-out are in the square panel near the ceiling to the right of the bathroom door (in mine).  I discovered this one night when a red light start flashing from 'within' the wall. I don't remember what exactly I did to reset and turn off the light, but the slide has worked fine since and was actually working fine before the trouble light started flashing.

Quote from: Molly on November 02, 2020, 08:07:42 AM
David - isn't this a RECALL issue?

You will thankfully be safe on the road after your trailer is fixed, but what about others who don't have a clue they are towing a DEFECTIVE trailer with an axle that cannot support the trailer weight?

It's a serious safety issue for everyone, including anyone on the road near any of these trailers.

They should ALL BE RECALLED and be fixed. Yes?

Sorry for not answering sooner, but just got notice of a post reply.  FWIW, this Forum is pretty much dead. Most folks have migrated to:  They have a separate category for LivinLite discussion.

Yes, the problem and repair was covered under warranty.  Luckily there was an approved dealer just a few miles from my house and everything is good now.

I also reported to National Transportation Safety Board - but never got a response from them.

If you end up looking at a single-axle model, check the axle.

Read my experience here:,983.msg4298.html#msg4298

All better now, but could have been a disaster.

I've experienced similar frustration with our fridge (Dometic) and went through all the troubleshooting steps, eventually concluding that:

  • the fridge does not respond quickly to any change of the thermostat; or in recovering from the door being open excessively.
  • the outside temperature (and whether or not parked in shade or sun) makes the most difference in how well/quickly the fridge cools.
  • don't wait for the morning of a trip to turn it on, give it a day or two to get cold.
I've since been using these thermometers to know more accurately what the inside temperature is:

If you own a single-axle Camplite trailer (mine is a 16TBS manufactured in October 2016) I encourage you to inspect your axle to confirm that it's load rating (GAWR) is LESS MORE THAN the manufacturer's maximum trailer load rating (GVWR) - or at least greater than the trailer 'dry' weight. There should be a label on the axle (like in attached photo) with the load rating. Compare that with the required manufacturer's label indicating the GAWR (also attached). The GVWR should be noted on the "Certificate of Origin" provided by Livin' Lite when the trailer was purchased. And there should be a label inside the trailer with the trailer's dry weight.

Short story - my trailer came with an undersized 2,500 axle when it should have had a 4,500 or larger one. I'm in the process of working with KZRV to get this error fixed - at their expense.

Full story -,969.0.html


I took the trailer into Curtis Trailer this morning for an inspection.  They confirmed the undersized axle and sent a report to KZRV. When I picked it up this afternoon, they informed me that KZRV responded "incredibly quick" with approval for replacing the axle and also the wheels and tires (R15) to match the new heavier axle. The service rep and I are both hopeful that they also have the necessary lift kit or axle mounting bracket to raise the trailer to accommodate the larger wheels - and that the larger tires will fit in the wheel wells when raised.

No telling how long it will take for the parts to arrive or get the service scheduled, or what complications may arise, but nice to be on a path to making things right.

I've heard back from KZRV that I 'should' have a 4,500 lb. axle.  They have directed me to a local RV dealer for an inspection and warranty claim (with of course no willingness by corporate at this point to admit any liability).  No telling how long this will take or end up. 

Quote from: ADR on July 20, 2019, 06:19:55 PM
Just for reference my 2018 16TBS has a single 4400lb Dexter axle.

Interesting, and that's what I would expect mine should have been. What size tires? Mine are 205 /75 R14.

Quote from: Mitch on July 16, 2019, 12:39:01 PM
I believe that the 16 foot model was a double axle when it was originally released back in 2012-2013, then after Thor purchased Livin-Lite some of the 16's were single axle and some were double axle depending on the inside layout.  That is all unimportant, if your axle is a 2500 lb axle then they installed the wrong axle.  My 2013 13QBB has a 3000lb axle and that was the standard axle so there's no way they would have spec'd a 2500 lb for a larger single axle trailer.
I contacted KZRV (apparently the current corporate owner of Livin'Lite) this morning questioning this axle situation. Customer service rep didn't have an answer and needed to consult with someone else. She got back to me asking me to send them the axle serial number which I did (along with email from Dexter already verifying it as a 2,500#axle) - and in closing that "I look forward to understanding how I could be sold a trailer whose dry weight exceeds the limits of the axle."

I suspect there is some scrambling going on at KZRV this afternoon.

Stay tuned..............David
Quote from: DavidM on July 16, 2019, 01:10:17 PM
There should be a sticker on the axle giving its model number and weight rating. If it really is a 2,500 lb rated single axle on a 16TBS then take it back to the dealer, park it on his lot until LL replaces that axle. The dry weight of the 16TBS was approximately 3,000 lbs. The GVWR of the single axle 16TBS was about 4,000 lbs. It would take at least a 3,600 lb rated single axle to carry that weight.

Also check your tire rating. They should be about 2,000 lbs each.

I've already been in contact with Dexter who confirmed the axle is rated at 2,500#. In fact, I found a sticker on the trailer that shows 2,500 as the GAWR as 2,500#.  And, according to Dexter a 3,500# axle could be swapped out for this one without needing to change wheels.  Even with that axle though, I would most likely exceed that weight limit with two full propane tanks and a battery - let alone any groceries.

Quote from: DavidM on July 15, 2019, 07:34:49 PM
I am a little confused. Do you have tandem axles or not. A single axle with a rating of 2,500 lbs won't carry a 16 TBS. So here are my answers for a tandem axle trailer:

A single axle, sorry for not making that clear as I know they switched to a double-axle in subsequent years - maybe because they finally did the math? I'm going to call the manufacturer and see what their explanation is.

Quote from: Mitch on July 15, 2019, 07:14:06 PM
So you're saying you have single axle 16TBS with a 2500 lb axle? If the answer is yes they put the wrong axle on it I think.
Yes. The 2016 model is a single axle. I believe they started using a double axle in 2017/18.

I just returned from a 6-week road trip to and around Alaska in my 2016 16TBS. Before the trip, I purchased new tires with a "D" load rating to replace the "C" rated tires that came from the manufacturer because I noted that the maximum load of the "C" tires (combined) was 3,500 lbs - and the manufacturer listed (in the sales literature) the "dry weight" of the trailer as 3,370 lbs. So, if if basically put any cargo in the trailer I would be exceeding the weight limit of the tires. The manufacturer listed the "GVWR" as 4,842 lbs. and the "D" tires are rated at 4,040 lbs. (combined) so I felt that would be a wise upgrade.  I have occasionally stopped at unattended highway (not freeway) weigh stations (they leave the scales on in Oregon) while on trips, and the trailer weight was between 3,600-3,800 lbs. Not the most accurate weighing I know (and am headed to a CAT scale soon), but gave me some confidence that I was well below the GVWR and everything should be hunky-dory.

Midway through our trip, and after many miles on rough/bumpy 'paved' roads and many segments of roads being rebuilt and driving over gravel/boulders, I noticed some unusual wear on one of my tires - a segment of the tread looked like it had literally been gauged out. I got in touch with the folks at Les Schwab that installed the tires, sent them some photos and discussed the likely causes: broken suspension or overloading causing the tire to scrape something in the wheel well when BOUNCING along the road. I transferred as much weight from the trailer to my TV as I could, and kept only a little water in the tanks. We made it home on the bum tire (which had still had plenty of good tread) with no related problems.  A couple of days ago I had a new tire installed and we inspected both wheels and wheel wells and could quite clearly see that both tires had rubbed on different parts of each wheel well, one more severely than the other (the one under several boxes of canned pop, water and etc.). During this inspection the tire guy speculated that my axle was rated at 2,500 lbs. maximum - which I subsequently confirmed from the manufacturer, Dexter, and from labels on the trailer.

I recite this background to show that I had done a fair amount of due diligence on this matter and read all kinds of internet discussions on this subject, and thought I had a good understanding of how to safely load and use our trailer. Obviously, I missed something or have been misled by the manufacturer, about how much "cargo" I can safely carry in my trailer, if, as I've come to believe, the AXLE WEIGHT rating is the weakest link/limiting factor in this equation.

So, to my questions:

  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can it be that the "dry" weight of the trailer exceeds that number by 870 lbs.?
  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can the gross vehicle weight rating be 4,842 lbs.?
  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can the manufacturer put a sticker (as required by law) on the trailer stating that "the weight of cargo should never exceed 2,250 lbs."?
  • If this were your trailer, what would you consider a maximum & safe weight to tow?