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Topics - PDX David

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Upgrades and Modifications / Radio Replacement
« on: December 05, 2021, 02:14:26 PM »
One of the things I was never happy with was the factory installed radio in my CL LivinLite 16TBS: DRIVE Model EEDV06  Primary complaint was inability to store preset stations.  It also failed once, but manufacturer replaced with little hassle.

I just swapped it out with a Jensen JWM60A: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07957QKYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And when I say "swapped" - it literally was a perfect match for size in the mounting hole and cabinet cavity. Even the mounting screw holes lined up!  I reused the existing wiring harness and all works fine. The Jensen does have capability for a sub-woofer, so if that's in your plans then you would probably need to use the supplied wiring harness.

Installation tips: It didn't come with mounting screws and existing ones are too big to fit under mounting plate, so use flat head wood screws. Also, I spent the most time of the whole project prying the end panels off the unit to get to the screw holes. Knife blade and patience.

..........David
 




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CampLite Travel Trailers / WARNING - Camplite Single-Axle
« on: August 08, 2019, 11:17:09 PM »
If you own a single-axle Camplite trailer (mine is a 16TBS manufactured in October 2016) I encourage you to inspect your axle to confirm that it's load rating (GAWR) is LESS MORE THAN the manufacturer's maximum trailer load rating (GVWR) - or at least greater than the trailer 'dry' weight. There should be a label on the axle (like in attached photo) with the load rating. Compare that with the required manufacturer's label indicating the GAWR (also attached). The GVWR should be noted on the "Certificate of Origin" provided by Livin' Lite when the trailer was purchased. And there should be a label inside the trailer with the trailer's dry weight.

Short story - my trailer came with an undersized 2,500 axle when it should have had a 4,500 or larger one. I'm in the process of working with KZRV to get this error fixed - at their expense.

Full story - https://www.livinlite.com/forum/index.php/topic,969.0.html

.......David



3
I just returned from a 6-week road trip to and around Alaska in my 2016 16TBS. Before the trip, I purchased new tires with a "D" load rating to replace the "C" rated tires that came from the manufacturer because I noted that the maximum load of the "C" tires (combined) was 3,500 lbs - and the manufacturer listed (in the sales literature) the "dry weight" of the trailer as 3,370 lbs. So, if if basically put any cargo in the trailer I would be exceeding the weight limit of the tires. The manufacturer listed the "GVWR" as 4,842 lbs. and the "D" tires are rated at 4,040 lbs. (combined) so I felt that would be a wise upgrade.  I have occasionally stopped at unattended highway (not freeway) weigh stations (they leave the scales on in Oregon) while on trips, and the trailer weight was between 3,600-3,800 lbs. Not the most accurate weighing I know (and am headed to a CAT scale soon), but gave me some confidence that I was well below the GVWR and everything should be hunky-dory.

Midway through our trip, and after many miles on rough/bumpy 'paved' roads and many segments of roads being rebuilt and driving over gravel/boulders, I noticed some unusual wear on one of my tires - a segment of the tread looked like it had literally been gauged out. I got in touch with the folks at Les Schwab that installed the tires, sent them some photos and discussed the likely causes: broken suspension or overloading causing the tire to scrape something in the wheel well when BOUNCING along the road. I transferred as much weight from the trailer to my TV as I could, and kept only a little water in the tanks. We made it home on the bum tire (which had still had plenty of good tread) with no related problems.  A couple of days ago I had a new tire installed and we inspected both wheels and wheel wells and could quite clearly see that both tires had rubbed on different parts of each wheel well, one more severely than the other (the one under several boxes of canned pop, water and etc.). During this inspection the tire guy speculated that my axle was rated at 2,500 lbs. maximum - which I subsequently confirmed from the manufacturer, Dexter, and from labels on the trailer.

I recite this background to show that I had done a fair amount of due diligence on this matter and read all kinds of internet discussions on this subject, and thought I had a good understanding of how to safely load and use our trailer. Obviously, I missed something or have been misled by the manufacturer, about how much "cargo" I can safely carry in my trailer, if, as I've come to believe, the AXLE WEIGHT rating is the weakest link/limiting factor in this equation.

So, to my questions:
  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can it be that the "dry" weight of the trailer exceeds that number by 870 lbs.?
  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can the gross vehicle weight rating be 4,842 lbs.?
  • If the maximum load of the single axle is 2,500 lbs. - how can the manufacturer put a sticker (as required by law) on the trailer stating that "the weight of cargo should never exceed 2,250 lbs."?
  • If this were your trailer, what would you consider a maximum & safe weight to tow?

Thanks.............David

4
CampLite Travel Trailers / Flashing Side Lights
« on: February 18, 2019, 10:05:55 AM »
Anyone else have this problem - or know the cause/fix?

When trailer power cord connected to tow vehicle and tow vehicle turned off - my trailer side lights have a trace amount of electricity reaching them and causing a continuous flashing of the lights.  Very faint, but noticeable (and I'm guessing irritating to campground neighbors) after dark.  Unplugging from TV will stop this.

The one positive 'feature' of this issue is when hooking the power cord to the TV I can look at a side light for the flashing and know the connection is good.

.....David

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