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I recently flipped both sleeping area shade/screens.  Took about 15 minutes for each window.  The hardest part is balancing the aluminum screw (no magnetism) on the screwdriver to screw the valance back on.  Tip - use a small piece of two-sided tape to hold the screw on the screwdriver, or change out the aluminum screws for steel and use a magnetic screw driver. 

Don't forget to consider what options are included (aluminum cabinet doors, off road package, larger AC unit, larger propane tanks, electric awning, TV).  They can add over $2000 to the list price. You need to also consider if freight is included or additional.  Depending on where you are buying, the freight could easily add another $1000 or more to the price.  You can use RVTrader.com to compare prices but buying local is a major consideration since you'll need to get the unit home (time and gas money).  Plus you'll need a reliable local dealer to handle any warranty issues, even though it is well built...stuff happens.   

This is one of the better You Tube videos on how to winterize
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KclDkjfnak
You'll find some procedures don't mention using air to blow out residual water but this video recommends it. 

Thanks Chappy and David for the info.  I'm not finding any dual boxes with a 8 1/2 inch width.  Looks like I'm forced to go with two single boxes.

Can anyone recommend a dual battery box that fits inside the battery rack on the newer Camplites.  I understand the battery rack is a rather new addition to a standard build.  The depth of the aluminum battery rack is 8.5" with a 1" lip.  That is quite narrow and all the dual battery boxes I've looked at exceed that critical depth measurement.  Mounting one of those larger boxes without removing that 1" lip will reduce the vertical clearance so it looks like it will not fit because the top of the battery box will hit the front camper wall due to the curvature of that front wall (the diamond plate section).  There is only 14" of clearance between the bottom of the battery rack and the front wall of the camper.  I was hoping that I could place two 6 volt batteries in one dual battery box on the existing battery rack, but I have not found a dual box with that small of a footprint.  I may have to install the 2-6V batteries in separate battery boxes which will increase cabling distances.  I could cut off the 1 inch lip on the battery rack, but I hate taking that destructive step.  Any advice?

There has been much debate on this and other forums about the new Fiberglass Azdel walls.  The old fiberglass was laminated to luan plywood and was prone to delaminating.  The wood layer, if wet, would expand and was a primary factor in the delamination over time.  This new Azdel fiberglass has no wood, it is laminated to Azdel and is not supposed to delaminate.  Some are incensed over this switch, that the all aluminum trailer is no longer "all aluminum".  I, for one, believe that newer composite materials can be lighter, stronger, and perform better so I'm supportive of using these newer materials.   As far as the other items in the Platinum package, there are some good items included, like the aluminum steps, battery disconnect, and friction entry door.  The Platinum item of an enclosed underbelly, does sound like a good idea also in that it provide some protection and insulation to the systems and parts in the underbelly, but the enclosure hinders access to anything in the underbelly, if you are inclined to that type of thing.  I ordered a Platinum edition.  You'll have to decide what's best for you.

2017 and some early 2018's had a Zamp Solar connector port.  On the 2018 16TBS Platinum video that Matt from Leo's RV posted on Youtube, it shows a Furrion connector port.  Is Zamp out and all new 2018's now prewired for Furrion solar?

Rock - Thanks, that video is very informative on the differences between Azdel and the old fiberglass.  Also, gives me an understanding of why anything screwed into it will not hold. 

Isn't this Azdel fiberglass a new laminate and not the old fiberglass?  From what I understand the delamination of the old fiberglass was due to the luan layer getting wet.  The new fiberglass is laminated onto an Azdel layer (no luan).   To me, it makes sense that without a luan layer, the delamination problem may not occur.  Has anyone heard of delamination occuring with the new Azdel Fiberlglass laminate?