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I've been following the Facebook group, according to the posts it's a complete shutdown, the design is done. Travel trailers and truck campers.  Time will tell of course but it's not surprising, they (Thor) never really spent any effort on it.  The management of it was shifted a couple of times in as many years, the initial transition was marked by bad product quality and horrible communication and the design was progressively moving away from what made the camper unique and desirable to begin with.  It's a shame really, camplite really was special in my opinion.  I went to the intech camper site, I don't see much that resembles the current camplite design but perhaps they will expand their offerings.

You can charge the battery at a campsite a few ways; if the site has a power pedestal your battery should charge when you plug the camper in.  If the site doesn't have a power pedestal then you could charge it with solar panels or a generator or conceivably by connecting it to the tow vehicle and starting the tow vehicle (that's pretty inefficient though)

You can run lights off the battery as well as the furnace and an RV fridge on propane if you have one (I don't know the QS 10, I have a 13QBB) The more you run stuff the quicker the battery will draw down. (You don't want to go below 50% draw down unless you have a lithium battery) You cannot run AC off of the battery.

You're welcome.  My 2013 13 QBB has been pretty much flawless since purchase so if the size works for you I think you'll be very happy. 

3 inches high 2 inches wide

Did water come out of your sink properly after you filled the tank but before the freeze?

I'm not familiar with that particular device and a quick search didn't come up with a manual but I did see where it does have a reverse polarity protection fuse.  You mentioned you did check the 4 fuses but I'm guessing there's another one somewhere for the polarity circuit.  If you have the manual it would probably show you where that is.

If I recall there is also a fuse for reverse polarity protection. Those are extremely sensitive and not in line with the other fuses. What model power converter do you have?

What David said would be a good idea for this year.  If you can do that then next year I'd pump your antifreeze through the pump rather than the through the city water line and you'll be all set.

Did you blow out the lines with a compressor or just drain everything via the low point drains?  Do you have moderately easy access to the water pump?

Command strips are fine, I use them for a variety of things with no problems and other have posted the same.  I'd venture to say that they are the go to attaching system for many of us.

I'm pretty sure the pump has a check valve on the output end so if your hand pumping past that point you won't get any anti-freeze into it. 

Not mine but a nice unit

https://www.rvt.com/Livin-Lite-Camp-Lite-13-QB-2015-Petersham-MA-ID7727234-UX217302#.WeTbWmRdWK4.facebook

I would not put any anti-freeze in the water heater.  My process is to open all the valves in the camper, open the low points, release the pressure valve on the water heater then remove the plug so it drains. Don't forget to open the outside shower valves too.  Once everything has stopped dripping I change the valves on my hot water heater bypass hoses so that the hot water heater is isolated from the rest of the water supply.  At this point the hot water heater is winterized (there is no water in it).  I pump anti-freeze through the lines and pour some down the traps but others just blow everything out with air.  Your choice there.  Things to remember: the toilet valve, the outdoor shower where the hose plugs in, and the city water inlet (it has a one way check valve right where you screw on the water source outside, just press in the screen fitting to release the pressure)  Hope this helps.

The floor change has been discussed in a couple of threads, the laminate system is the new standard and has been for at least a few months if not the entire year.  No more AL floor.  Opinions vary as to whether this change is good, bad or neutral.  I have a 2103 13QBB and a couple of weekends ago did a pretty thorough walk-around of some new 16's (DBS and TBS) my thought is that the new ones are not as sturdily designed as the old ones, that being said I'm not sure that makes them bad in any way.  I'm beginning to think the old ones were just really good and the new ones are more in line with the industry as a whole.

A couple of the other major changes would be the TPO roof vs Aluminum roof , the spring axle vs the torsion axle and single axle vs dual axle.