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In case it is missed in the announcement section>



https://www.livinlite.com/forum/index.php/topic,841.msg3802/boardseen.html#new

Yikes!

Safety Issue Type: Recalls
September 19 2018 NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V643000
Drawbar may Crack and Trailer may Separate
If the trailer separates from the tow vehicle, it can increase the risk of a crash.
NHTSA Campaign Number 18V643000
Manufacturer Livin' Lite Recreational Vehicles
Components STRUCTURE
Potential Number of Units Affected 154
Summary
Livin' Lite Recreational Vehicles (Livin' Lite) is recalling certain 2017-2019 Livin' Lite CampLite
travel trailers, models 21BHS, 21RBS, 23RKS and 23RLS. The drawbar of the trailer may crack
resulting in the trailer separating from the tow vehicle.

see attached PDF for more info.

Unfortunately building the camper around the fridge isn't unheard of- 
My parents had friends with a motorhome that the windshield had to be taken out then it took about 6 guys to lay the old fridge down and pass it out the opening and pass a new one back in.  Then reinstall the huge windshield.   Very expensive deal all around!

The Dometic A/C manual is actually on this site in the Appliance Manuals section...

And yes google popped up the 4751ks manual in .53 seconds...

Just be aware of the frame strength needed to use the ones that don't span the trailer frame.   Lots of twisting applied to the frame rail on those- not sure some frames would stand that for long.

The space between the rollers in the bearings, through which the grease passes while migrating to the hub opening, is still there even if not spinning.
If grease got pushed past the seal then the seal is probably defective and would happen spinning or not.
I currently own 10 trailers and all but 2 have easylube hubs- have greased them many times stationary and never had an issue. 
I do prefer to spin the wheels when greasing but it is a lot of work sometimes for little real benefit.

Before you call Dexter take a look under and see if the original factory sticker is still on it-  if it is get all the numbers off it.
They'll likely ask for that info- and if you go to replace it- they will need it to build another axle.
FYI you can get a heavier duty axle built by them to replace the original if you like.

FWIW I have an enclosed trailer with tandem Dexter Torflex axles- it is about 15 years old and sits constantly between uses with about 4-5000 lbs in it.
No sagging noted.

It takes a common #2 square bit-  used by the millions on RV's.  Also known as a Robertson.

The 8 sided screw is called a double square.   Torx are 6 sided.

As long as the heat is on, your tanks should be OK. As for dump lines, those aren't usually connected in freezing weather.

The issue with exposed pipes to the dump valves is they will freeze, even with a well heated tank if it is cold enough.
The heated underbelly might be useful if both black and grey tanks were dry and you just wanted to have fresh water available.
The problem with that in the 16TBS is the fresh tank is the other side of the two holding tanks, long way for that little bit of heat in an uninsulated belly to go and keep the tank above 32F.

If your furnace looks like this-

The intake/return air comes in around the sides of the grille.

One possible thing that will drain a battery quickly is the emergency brake switch-  that braided steel cable you hook to your tow vehicle.
Make sure the plunger isn't out where the switch is on the frame.

That switch does NOT run through the disconnect switch since you may need it towing with the disconnect switch off.

thanks for the info! - my heater is under the fridge - does it come out pretty easily to get to the outlet for the underbelly?  Yeah when I took delivery I realized the gray and black tank drain are way our of the heated part.

If it is like mine there is a screwed on panel next to the heater under the fridge, take the 2 screws out and you'll see the hose.  If you just unplug it from the heater you'll need a blockoff plate to keep from wasting hot air blowing into that compartment.   I use an old rubber ball to plug the hole in the floor.
I do carry the hose in case I ever want to put it back.

BTW I put in threaded inserts* where the wood screw went into the framing of the opening and use 2 thumb screws to access that compartment- nice extra storage bonus.

*like these-  https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524172983&sr=8-2&keywords=threaded+wood+inserts

I have a 2018 16TBS with the heated underbelly.
Honestly I think the heated underbelly is near worthless on the 16TBS, don't know if the DBS is the same.
The heat is fed through about a 2" hose through the floor in the right rear corner of the camper.
With the very poorly sealed uninsulated underbelly I doubt very much there is enough heat available to keep the tanks from freezing.
It gets worse-  the drain pipes for the black and grey have several feet outside the belly with no insulation or heat.
Those pipes will freeze long before the tanks would,  even with no heat on the tanks.

I disconnected the heat hose from the furnace and blocked the opening off.   We do camp below freezing at times but more above freezing where some heat is needed.   Not a fan of throwing heat away when it is unnecessary. 

Even better pro tip - do not use silicone!
Reason is once you use it nothing will ever stick there again if it needs redoing. New silicone won't even stick to silicone.   Dang near impossible to remove all traces of it.

My 2018 16TBS came with a battery disconnect switch inside the front compartment.   Don't know if that is standard or optional.