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You might consider this for raising your tandem axle trailers. I use it unless I need to rise both wheels.  https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx Lynx Levelers are another great option. Both require no jack or block or jack stand.

On the side of the road these are the safest options considering you need to climb under the trailer for your spare. I wouldn't waste any time trying to refit the flattened spare under the trailer. Let the tire guys do that...

If yours is like mine then the switch is a selector switch. in one direction it feeds and amplifies the roof top antenna. In the other direction it connects to the cable TV input outside the trailer. It does all this while only using one coax jack because behind the coax jack there is a Wye (or Tee) feeding the single coax jack.
You said you have two coax jacks both inside the trailer and outside the trailer and that the second internal coax jack inside the trailer is left unconnected. Is the second outside coax jack left unconnected as well? If not then the factory may have dropped the cable in the wall and you may be able to fish it out and connect it.

Don't you have an antenna booster in there? If you do there is a switch near the coax plate. That switch also directs the single functional coax jack (it has a wye behind there) from antenna and external cable TV port on the trailer. This allows only one internal coax jack to be used to split between ANT and Cable. Your blank jack is a bonus?

Mine is set up like this.

The Prius received a 1600 lb tow rating in 2016. They added heat management to motor power components and generator. It's only approved overseas, not in the US and Canada. I'm not certain if all Priuses (Prius'?) have the new heat management components or not but am certain of the reduced legal towing speeds in those countries where it is allowed.

While the normal foamy hot water is still present, don't forget to sanitize the system. It will save some time and water.

I have no experience that you asked for but if it has no tow rating she has no auto insurance on the road. Bar that the thing is a torquer and will most likely do just fine especially in reasonable terrain at reasonable speeds.

That tow rating though.

[W]

I'd skip the WD-40. It does a great job of flushing any existing oils or grease but evaporates in a week. Suggest Boeing Boeshield T-9. That stuff seeps in well, stays, and actually lubricates. WD (Water Displacing)40 is a poor lubricant. Boeshield displaces water too.

As a contractor I usually travel with my truck loaded with hand tools and power tools. Also a 7' ladder to access the roof with the caulking gun if need be.

What's up with all the bogus posts? Russian, online meds.... Are there no mods or admins here?

There is some thing called implied warranty of merchantability in the UCC. The rules regarding this varies from state to state. Anyways, it seems you have decided against that angle so the point is moot. Good luck!

I too am of the belief that a simple tongue lock is about all you can sensibly do in a camping situation. Best to focus on recovery/tracking methods for after the fact. Load up on insurance too. Believe we pay around $600 per year on an insurance policy for the trailer that is separate from the auto insurance which covers accidents and theft while connected to the tow vehicle. Different States will have different rules regarding what is covered connected versus disconnected. Our trailer policy covers anything connected or disconnected. Important to us being away from the trailer so much while boondocking.

Covers are used on autos that will spend more time sitting in the sun than driving on the road. Think a covered restored car for use on special occasions only. Many times RV tires don't get worn down for 7-10 years so the Sun is the killer, not mileage wear. I'd bet this is why many folks buy less expensive ST trailer tires instead of more expensive trailer radials and LT tires for their trailers.

Like Djsamuel I too run balanced trailer radials. Maxxis is another good tire to add to his list.

To add.

Where you may run into some difficulty with the hardwired EMS' is if you use a marginally sufficient generator while running A/C. A common problem is not so much damaging the A/C unit as it is the dropout voltage of the contactor in the EMS. You may experience contact chatter which will shorten the life of the contactor.

Good news is it is simply solved using a 30A DPDT switch to bypass the EMS while on generator power. You could always install a transfer switch but I felt that was overkill.  Generators like the newer inverter ones have most of the major protections that EMS' offer built in to them but not all.

Those EMS devices do far more than protect from surges and voltage swings. Some like the EMS-HW30C test for a multitude of potential problems. The thing with RV's is they are not static dwellings. The potential problems are in the making over time as vibrations from road travel can lead to rubbing off the insulation of wiring. This is even more of a potential problem in Camplites as jagged edges where wiring is run through a metallic structure in well hidden areas. Even if all the onboard wiring is 100% correct you are plugging into a different campground supply and in different environments every time you change sites. Strikes occur more in certain area than others.

I chose the HW30C for the reason you mentioned, theft, but also for it's ability to bypass itself if it fails for some reason until repair parts arrive. Theft is a real problem in and out of CG's. I'm sure some areas are worse than others.

You might look up Mike Sokol's writings and videos at the No Shock Zone for more but, yes, EMS' are a good idea and some like the HW30C can protect you from everything except a reverse polarity bootleg ground.

One question. In what state did you purchase this truck camper in?

Regarding the salesman, I think I told him what I had for a truck, and told him my deceased husband had already said that our truck would carry it no problem. 

This has very little impact on legality. Just imagine if mechanics rigged cars to be unsafe just because their owners said it was OK. I don't think that would fly to well on the interstates if there were a problem caused by it. Until unscrupulous dealers get dragged through the muddy muddy muck of lawsuits they are unlikely to change their ways.

Of course this all assumes you did not sign a waiver in one form or another.

But, hey, a new truck sounds good too.