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I personally think the weight distribution hitches put too much stress on these aluminum trailers. There have been multiple times this has happened and I think most people were using them. And they really don't need them for something with 350-450 lbs tongue weight. Don't tow with a small SUV where you need to use distribution hitches and I think they are okay.
If you think about it, the weight bars are forcing the tongue to stay in one spot in relation to the vehicle. What happens when going over bumps, driveways, etc? The trailer can't move and something has to give. The forces are multiplied even more. Lots of stress on fairly thin aluminum tubing. Without them, the trailer is free to move with bumps.
Now, a sway bar, sure. That should be fine. But obviously, it's up to the owner to use a weight distribution hitch or not. Just my two cents.

RV store should have them. Measure the width of the old one first and get the same if possible. The one I bought was too wide and didn't fit. I had to trim the corners off so it would. You would need to be able to get to the backside of it to get the water connections off as well. Of course, make sure the pump is off first and/or city water turned off. It will make a small mess. 

FYI, price has gone up. Just paid ~$700 for one for my toyhauler. It is irritating, but I also didn't buy mine new, so I knew about this going into it. If I had bought new, I would be pretty upset.

Check the roof. As long as it's just dents, no big deal. Just cosmetic at that point. If it has holes/penetrations, then you would have to seal them and monitor just as you would any other roof hole/seam (vent covers, plumbing vent, edges, etc). Replace the sealant when it starts to look bad. Up to you if it bothers you or not. Obviously the value of the trailer would be lower, so should be able to get a decent deal. Good luck.

Livin Lite sold out to Thor and then was basically shut down several years later.  So no, they aren't made anymore. Closest in concept is ATC trailer.
The TC1's are out there. I've seen several in the last year online. Seem to run about $3k. Check Facebook marketplace (change your location to different areas that you are willing to drive to, craigslist by using searchtempest.

Contact Challenger Door in Indiana. If you have the stickers on the doors themselves they can match them up quite easily. They have a pretty good for us Livin Lite owners, but it will still cost you. I paid around $550 for a complete side door/screen door assembly last year. Not too hard to replace.
I dealt with Amos Bontrager
[email protected]
1-574-773-0470

The couple I've had have been the CH751. Prior owner may have changed them. Maybe the RV dealer has a bunch of standard keys and could try several different ones. Or find a locksmith.

You can increase the wheel size, but would need to work with the tire shop to get tires that are approximately the same outer diameter. Unless you are planning on lifting the trailer as well. Then you could go a little bigger with the tires as well. Obviously double check the lug nut pattern to make sure it matches.

It may have just fried the converter itself. If you are willing to do some work, you could test the appliances by unplugging them from the trailer and testing them with an extension cord. May have gotten lucky and they are okay. For the converter probably an RV shop. Or maybe you know an electrician? They should be able to replace that if you get the parts. Upgrade the converter while you at it.

I would get under the trailer and inspect all welds, both at the axles and the frame welds too. You are basically looking for cracks starting to form. If you are not comfortable with that, then you should take it to a good welding shop and have them check all the welds and show you what to look for. You should be checking this after every trip, and maybe after severe pothole hits. If the aluminum has started to crack, it can probably be repaired before it gets worse.

All of the exterior doors were made by Challenger door. They have some wood on the inside and get moisture in there. Then they start to corrode from the inside out.
Warranty- nope
Replacement-Contact Challenger Door. There should be a white label on every door. It will let them know the correct size, color, etc.
Price- I paid $550 for a new entry door with screen and new locks. That included tax and shipping in 2020. Obviously shipping will depend on where you live. I would think the ramp door could get send, but they will be able to tell you.
You would either need to replace them yourself or have an RV shop do the work. Entry door wasn't too bad, haven't tried a ramp door yet.

All the heaters are a standard model available from any RV dealer.
My 2013 has a Suburban SW6 D. 6 gallon, propane only.

RBS =Rear Bath Slide
BHS=Bunkhouse Slide
Or something like that
My 21RBS has full bath in back and queen bed in front.

There is a 619 VRV XTR for sale out in Washington State. A little longer, but maybe that will work?
https://spokane.craigslist.org/rvs/d/coolin-vrv-619-xtr-charcoal-grey/7178675353.html

I have a 2013 VRV 7x18 for sale. If interested, message or call me @ 715-456-3542. Located in WI. Andy