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The physical plug is different for 50 and 30 amp connections, so you need an adapter. They're usually called "dog bone" adapters because they're pretty short with big plugs on both ends. Here's the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55175-PowerGrip-Dogbone-Electrical/dp/B000BUTDCA/

We were trying to run it with propane but needed battery power as well to keep it going. This is our first trailer and we thought it could run for a couple of days lol. It seemed to start the fridge once and then was too weak to keep it going. So we thought maybe a generator for those times when we don't have electricity available.

Something's not right. The fridge should be able to run for at least a couple days on propane with an average battery. Was the battery dead after it gave up? Pretty much any device in your trailer uses more than the fridge in propane mode. Did the water pump still run? The pump uses way more power than the fridge. Either your battery has issues or the fridge is malfunctioning.

There's also an easy modification to the fridge to disable the frame heater than will make it run more than twice as long. Details here: http://archive.aluminiumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=144.0

I am wondering about the power inverter. Does it do anything other than charge the battery? I can't find any 110v powered outlets unless I'm plugged into shore power. I'm considering upgrading the TV to something a little bigger but most of them run on 110v. I was wondering if the power inverter would power it.

Stock LL trailers don't have inverters (12VDC -> 110VAC), they just have converters (110VAC -> 12VDC). So if you bought a 110VAC TV then you'd need to be connected to shore power (or a generator) to use it. You could also add an inverter, but they can be quite expensive.

So if a crack forms after 3 (or now 2) years it's not covered by the warranty, but what's the best course of action to get them fixed? Most dealers have little to no experience welding aluminum.

My question was for owners who have already experienced a bent coupler. Are you saying that they should just add side-bolts to a bent coupler?

So both methods are supported (neither will void the warranty) and you stand behind the dealer recommendations?

Several users have seen some rather scary looking cracks in welds, missing welds, inadequate welds. What's the factory policy on these defects? How long do you guarantee the workmanship on the frame welds? What's the best course of action to get them fixed?

Several users (some with WDH, some without) have experienced bent couplers (myself included). What does the factory recommend for this situation? Replace? Reinforce? Upgrade? Will the factory cover the expense?

What is the Livin Lite policy on weight distributing hitches? I've seen everything from "don't use it, they void your warranty" to "as long as you don't drill any holes in the frame", but I don't remember the factory ever chiming in. It would be nice to get a recommendation from the factory on WDH.