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I'm getting ready to build some wooden drawers under my sink. I need a silverware drawer and a junk drawer. We also bought a lazy Susan at lowes made by oxo to go in one cabinet

I think that the dicor in the yellow tube is pretty much the standard. I recently pulled out 2 or 3 questionable spots on mine and re-caulked. I dig it out with a plastic putty knife, wipe the metal with denatured alcohol on a rag and then let it flow in and around. It had a great bond to the existing caulk as well as the aluminum with the Dicor. Sika also makes a great product. I have been using OSI quad clear on the lower sections to replace the silicone. A good trick for a finished caulk joint that will be seen is to clean everything, wipe with alcohol, mask off the areas above and/or below, and then caulk it. DAP makes a little red squeegee tool that smoothes it out perfect. Pull your masking tape asap and a perfect caulk joint should be all that remains!

Tekonsha makes a great controller. Your Toyota might be pre wired under the steering wheel. I also suggest looking at a scan gauge or ultra gauge to monitor your transmission temps. You may find yourself looking into a transmission cooler. If you didn't already know, you should never tow in overdrive. It will cause pretty serious damage to your transmission.

Looks like a great upgrade Dan... Nice to see you guys keeping the high end components in the line.

There is an AGM # in the corner of the window on a sticker... The window has AGM???0500x0300... that is the kitchen # indicating 500x300. The other numbers on the windows will designate their size.

Dual axles are better for trailer weight distribution. Think back like a teeter-totter. If you have dual axles then your fulcrum is three feet wide rather than 3". dual axles don't "suck over" as bad with passing truck traffic. The redundancy of four tires lets you creep off the side of the highway or maybe get to the next exit in limp mode. I have brakes on both axles on my 21. I don't know if this is the case on a 16, but it helps out on a smaller tow vehicle big time. The down sides are more tires to buy, more bearings, and harder to maneuver in tight spaces. Especially the barn and driveway where I try to jack knife it in. Depending on the dealer you might be able to try both and decide. IMO the second axle is worth every penny.

2000 watts is borderline at best for an A/C. Remember that temperature and altitude play into this as well. The capacitor kits will help, but I don't know it it will be enough. I use a 3000w Honda. It runs my a/c but that's about it. If your other items are sipping amps as well, it is tough. I've always said the Yamaha 2400w is the smallest you should go. FWIW I use a Honda eb3000c. It is a commercial contractor generator. It is a little loud compared to the eu series, but I have a box that helps a ton to dampen the noise. It is literally quieter than the eu 2000 Hondas now. If you haven't bought a generator yet take the trailer to the generator shop and hook it up. You might be able to rent a generator and try it for a week. I would have gladly bought the eu3000, but the weight was over 125# preventing me from lifting it. Mine is 75# and still a PITA. Hope some of this helps

My wife ordered the Leesa bed for the house. It was a little pricey for a hunk of foam, but it is pretty comfy. There are other foam beds as well. I see no reason that you couldn't cut it to size if it didn't fit. I think this is the route I will go in the spring.

I'm not up to speed on the 8.1.... I assume you have a battery charger inverter. Did you wire the switch so the charger is still attached or is it totally isolating the battery? I assume this is why the negative terminal was broken? I am thinking about doing this to my 21. I just like everything "off" when not in use. Right now I disconnect it. We don't boondocks very often, but it is nice to know you won't come home to a dead battery. When I go fishing with guys we usually only run the generator in the morning for coffee/breakfast and then dinner prep... 2 hours max/day

I've not heard or seen of a fiberglass trailer from living lite. The floors have been switched to a composite that may have you confused. It hasn't been well received by the community but I don't think the composite is as horrible as everybody thinks.

Nice trailer. You'll love it! Congrats

Goodyear has a new trailer tire that is supposed to be made in USA. I have not confirmed this, but I am rolling Chinese tires right now which gives me the willies. Check the speed ratings on your tires. Most trailer tires are only rated for 65MPH. Kinda makes you squirm when you are rolling down the highway getting passed by other rigs. Be sure to service those bearings as well!!!

welcome aboard. There is a ton of info out here. These trailers are definitely different than any others that are out there. Good luck! Post Pics!!!

Central non-ducted units are pretty much all this way. My old Jayco had a Coleman Mach 1. It roared like a freight train. My 2015 has a dometic.. It is quiet(er) but still very loud. I'm afraid this is just the nature of the beasts. I can put in ear plugs, but I can't do 90 degree camper.

Well as for the next chapter, camp lite stepped up to the plate and made it happen on this one. If you ever need customer support, ask for Taylor... She is top notch. they went way above and beyond. Dan Miller was also very helpful. It was a great feeling to realize the commitment these guys have to their product. Parts are definitely available through Duncan if you ever find yourself with a window issue.