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Messages - MarshHawk

#1
Dan, there are absolutely no seams on my underbelly. I just crawled around under there for the umpteenth time and quadruple checked. My window sticker said Prototype, built new way. Perhaps this was before they started putting seams in? And as far as bringing it back to my dealer for service to tighten a bolt, the dealer is in Illinois and I am in Maryland. In addition, my dealer has not been returning ANY of my phone calls or emails. I have a TV that has been broken since I picked up the trailer, as well as another problem with a vent cover. None of these issues have been resolved to date. This does not inspire great confidence in the ability of my dealer. That is, if they actually would communicate with me at all.

I just want to make it clear that I am very happy with my trailer purchase. I know I have a quality trailer and I believe in the Livin Lite Brand. I am just having issues that are frustrating me.
#2
As you can see on these pictures, there are no seams in this underbelly. There is hard foam sealing the holes where pipes and wires come thru the underbelly. This is not just going to "belly down" without tearing the foam out of the holes. Because of the items sticking out through the holes it isn't going to just drop down far enough to reach these bolts from the side of the trailer. This bolt is a quality control issue at the factory end -With not an easy solution for the consumer. Am I expected to tear off this crack filler/insulation from my brand new trailer to tighten bolt that the factory didn't  install correctly? This isn't really a satisfactory answer. Please have the engineers look at this issue. I'm sure I'm not going to be the first and last person with this access issue.
#3
Dan, I have a troubling problem I hope you can help me with. My trailer has the new covered underbelly. Through social media I have been made aware of trailers with a welds failing and bolts being loose on the fresh water tank supports. I took 3 of the bolts down from the edge of the underbelly at the front end of the trailer and was able to to see the center water tank support where it bolts to the frame. One of the bolts is very obviously loose. I cannot see far enough down to visually inspect the rest. This leads me to an important safety issue. How can I possibly get in there to tighten this bolt, and for that matter to inspect and/or maintain the entire underside of my trailer. The material is all one piece, and is tucked securely above the frame on the sides with no access whatsoever. The front and the back have bolts that allow about 1 1/2" of space to barely peer in.  I am very concerned.
This is a zoomed in photo from my iPhone from the front under my battery to the area near the axel where the water tank is.
#4
As a consumer, and active in a lot of RV forums and Facebook, I see so much confusion and misinformation on the new 2018 Platinum package, and options such as fiberglass, new floor, underbelly etc. I see many potential and current customers claiming they are disappointed in Livin Lite, and possibly now even not consider buying one bases on this misinformation! Personally, I think it would help for Livin a Lite to have updated their web page before all these rumors and confusion got started. This is something that you might want to mention to the proper department. I get frustrated for the Livin Lite brand, which I have a lot of confidence in, to hear people make decision and have opinions that are not based on factual information.  This is just some feedback from a consumer's point of view. I love the brand, I love my camper. (Insert happy camper emoji here!)
#5
General Q & A / Re: How to hitch the Andersen hitch
September 08, 2017, 04:13:42 PM
Quote from: rgb13qbb on July 26, 2017, 04:26:04 PM
Here is an alternative way that works well and eliminates having to loosen then reset your tension bushing nuts all the time. Part numbers are per the Anderson owners manual.

"Hooking and Un-Hooking the Anderson Hitch Assembly to the Tow Vehicle the Easy Way"
When hooking or unhooking the trailer it is Not Necessary to loosen /tighten the red tension bushing (part# 13) nuts (part# 15) once the hitch is set up for a particular trailer.   
Hooking the Trailer to the Tow Vehicle:
•   Check the number of threads showing past the tension nuts (part# 15) are same as your "basic" set up and equal on both side.  Record your "basic" thread setting here: _________________
•   With the trailer supported by the tongue jack, align the hitch ball on the Tow Vehicle with the trailer coupler;
•    Use the trailer tongue jack to lower the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball. Insure the trailer coupler fully engages the hitch ball and close the coupler ball latch.
•   Use the tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue and rear of the Tow Vehicle. If the coupler and hitch ball are fully engaged and the coupler latched, the trailer tongue and the rear of the Tow Vehicle will both rise. Raise the tongue until the "triangle plate" (part# 10), with the torsion chains (part# 12) attached, will slide easily onto the bottom of the ball shank. Install triangle plate retaining pin and clip pin (part#4).
•   Connect the safety chains in a "cross over" and connect the trailer break-away brake cable to the Tow Vehicle.
•   Lower the tongue jack until the weight is on the Tow Vehicle and Anderson Hitch System.
•   Secure the tongue jack and connect the trailer power cable to the Tow Vehicle.
•   Do a walk around, making sure the trailer lights all work and trailer stabilizer jacks and door step are all securely stowed. You are ready to go.
Unhooking the Trailer from the Tow Vehicle:
•   Apply Tow Vehicle Emergency Brake and block the trailer tires.
•   Disconnect the safety chains and trailer power cable.
•   Deploy the trailer tongue jack and raise the trailer tongue/rear of Tow Vehicle until the there is sufficient slack in the Torsion Chains (Part#¬¬ 12) to allow the triangle plate (Part #10) with the torsion chains attached to drop free of the ball shank when the triangle plate retaining pin (part# 4) is removed.
•   Remove the clip pin from the triangle plate retaining pin and remove the retaining pin from the bottom of the ball shank.
•   The triangle plate and torsion chain assembly should slide free of ball shank. A slight sideways twist may be required to aid the release of the plate from the shank.  It should never be necessary to pound on the plate to release it from the ball shank!
•   Stow the triangle plate and torsion chain assembly on or under the trailer tongue in a manner no one will trip on it.
•   Level the trailer, deploy the stabilizer jacks and door step. Connect the trailer to shore power if available. Enjoy!

this is exactly how I do it. My biggest problem is sometimes the sometime I have a hard time getting the pin into the Anderson hitch. I'm not sure why.
#6
I'd be interested, but I'm in Maryland.
#7
Mine are tinted
#8
I have the Platinum package on mine...it includes the fiberglass sides, a covered underbelly, back lit cabinets inside, and other features.
#9
I am thrilled with it. It is just gorgeous.beautiful bright shiney white with new style decals. 😍😍😍😍
#10
Chappy..that is exactly what I did. The spare is in the truck bed, where it will probably stay. The dealer is the one who said we needed the Anderson hitch. Silly newbie mistake to listen to the dealer on suggesting to put the spare on the bumper and to buy a hitch I don't need. I may end up taking the Anderson hitch off at some point. Lesson learned!
#11
I have a fiberglasss 2018
#12
Product Questions and Recommendations / Safety issue
August 26, 2017, 01:17:38 PM
Took possession of my 2018 CL16TBS proto type. I absolutely adore it. However, my dealer recommended the Anderson hitch installation. We had them put it on. In doing so they had to remove the spare tire that we mounted under the propane tanks on the trailer to put on the Anderson Hitch attachment.  They had no where to move the spare (the belly of the trailer is the new, all sealed/heated underside). The installer said it was fine to mount the spare on the back bumper. I said... I was told NOT to mount anything to the bumper" . He said this was not true, and mounted it to the rear bumper. We are still on the shakedown voyage and I am extremely concerned. I do not want to cause injury to myself, my camper,or anyone else. Is this a safety issue and a Hazard? A dealer should not be doing this if it's not safe.
#13
New Members / Re: New owner. Used 2014 16DBS
August 14, 2017, 09:11:44 AM
Congrats!
#14
Thanks for the answer.

I would have much much preferred to buy locally, believe me. And I'm sure everyone would.
#15
Product Questions and Recommendations / Warranty work
August 04, 2017, 09:11:55 AM
So, now I'm curious. It seems that quite often there is not a local Livin Lite dealer near to someone's home. I have seen many people stating that they are traveling quite far (myself included) to purchase a Livin Lite unit. I consider this a great compliment to the quality of Livin Lite. On the other hand ...local RV dealers refuse to work on repairs to an RV you did not purchase thru them. (I have personally heard this myself from local dealers. One of them then covered himself by saying...well, we would do it, but we handle all our own customers first and the wait would be so long, it's nearly impossible to have it repaired)

So my question is...how does Livin Lite handle any warranty work that might need to be done? Does Livin Lite let you take it to anyone and you submit a bill to livin Lite. Or are you required to go to the dealer you purchased from?