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Their website says that these windows are European made. I will bet they are exactly the same as the LL OEM Dometic Seitz windows and are made by the same manufacturer.

David

Somewhere in the thread below the folks from Arctic Tern discuss the differences.  Haven't seen one in person, but from the pics, they look pretty much the same.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/u-s-alternative-to-seitz-top-hinged-windows.140945/

Unless it is a warranty item, for windows, you may consider these folks who make windows similar to those found in our LL's.

https://www.ternoverland.com/arctic-tern-window

If you are in AZ and are into RVs you must be familiar with Quartzite.  If not, check it out.  About a million RVers hang out there in the winter.

http://www.quartzsitervshow.com/

PS: Point being you'll find lots of companies willing to do the work you referenced in and around Quartzite in the winter.  AZ is awesome for solar so lots of solar installers will be in the area as well.

Someone here ma have a copy of a similar sticker, but in the mean time, if you go to https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2013/Camp-Lite/M-CL16DB/6020068/Values and enter your actual model number, the suggested list price will be close to the original MSRP and the Average Retail will be close to the current value, at least for DMV purposes.   That might give you an idea on how far off they were.

Rather than trying to schedule a dealer to do anything, assuming that is an original Vortex fan with single speed single direction, then if you PM me I'll send you a working fan assembly for the cost of shipping.  I replaced mine with the upgrade mentioned below. 

I'd honestly consider the same. Very easy to upgrade to the Vortex II inner assembly that can go in/out and has multiple speeds. 

https://www.amazon.com/Roof-Vent-Vortex-Ugrade-Multi-Speed/dp/B00APSSPEA  Shop around as prices on this fan upgrade seem all over the map.

If you don't want the upgrade or to spend any money, you could also just ask LL/KZ to send you a new fan innards and replace yourself.  Easier and faster than a dealer.

Congrats, love the simplicity of the QS.  We had an early QS10 and now have a CL21RBS (with an Aliner Ranger 15 in between).

No owners manual?

Sounds like this is the switch you are referring to...



On my 21RBS it simply turns the water heater on/off.  The reset light will turn on and stay on if it overheats and needs to be reset from the outside.   The water will stay hot/warm for quite awhile after it is turned off, so if you switch it off and it is still warm that's normal.  You may want to try a cold start in the morning and see what happens. The reset light may flash for a moment when originally turned on.   

Unless you have a second switch that overrides this switch, this switch should just turn it off/on.

If no luck also ask on aluminumcamperforum.com

Congrats on the new trailer!

For all, some of the 2016's were built in late 2015 still had aluminum roof/sides/floor.  Mine was built in Dec and has vinyl on top on the solid alum floor (my wife greatly prefers the vinyl layer compared to our last LL) but it does add a lot of weight.  We also have the wooden cabinet doors which adds more weight (and can rot) but both my wife and I like the look of the door as well.

LivinLite does not exist anymore and I doubt the new folks at KZ (who took over LL) could help. Sounds like a dealer issue. If the AmericanRV you are referring to was the one in Grand Rapids then I suggest contacting Camping World who took them over.  They may have copies of the paperwork. https://rv.campingworld.com/dealer/grand%20rapids-michigan

Good luck...

...
I currently own 10 trailers and all but 2 have easylube hubs- have greased them many times stationary and never had an issue. 
...

Glad to see there are other folks besides me with trailer issues. Although I only have 5 at the moment. Next time my wife complains I'll use you as a reference. 

PS: I also typically lube hubs while on the ground, although can see some advantage to spinning the wheels, which we do when changing/repacking bearings (which I have not personally done in years).  Haven't had an issue since the earlier 80's.  Fortunately had a spare hub with me.  Much easier to swap a hub than replace bearings on the side of the road, hundreds of miles from home.

Try 'camp driveway' unplugged on a hot day to discover what camping without power will be like.  If you use a cpap that runs off of AC you'll need to figure out a workable solution. 

We'd like the option of boondocking in hot temps with AC for a few hours in the afternoon.  I discovered my old Honda 2000i generator would not start my AC even with a soft-start installed.  It really should, so I suspect the carb is a tad gunked up and it is not working at full efficiency. 

I have a Champion 3500wt inverter dual fuel waiting for me at home (in NH on vaca now).  I'm looking forward to being able to run it just on propane and not have to worry about fuel during storage since we will not use it very often.  I keep a 3rd propane tank in the truck bed for my Qgrill and the gen will occasionally use that tank as well.

We've got a 3-4 day boondocking trip coming up in Aug.  Looking forward to it.

Might be on the other LL forum
https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=816.msg5955#msg5955

... Are your AC's knobs hard to turn? I saw on another forum that the owner had to use pliers to turn his. I'm hoping they loosen up with use. How about your shower leaking? ...

AC knobs and shower work fine.  No real issues with my trailer so far. Picked it up in April, as a leftover.  It was built in late 15 and sat on the lot in Indiana for 2 years.  So we took some risk and think we got a great deal and we're very pleased.   I did do this PDI prior to taking ownership, which I recommend to everyone.
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/buenavistas/RV_checklists/PDI_V113_2.pdf

I spent ~3hrs crawling under/over/in/out of it testing every system prior to taking ownership and then gave them 3-4 days to fix some items that I identified.  Moore Custom Trailers was great to work with.  Since I knew Thor was in the process of putting LL out to pasture I treated it like a 'tail-light' warranty purchase. (Even though Thor says they will stand behind the warranty)  I wanted everything fixed prior to delivery, especially since the dealer was ~800 miles away.

I also have CL21RBS and find that it cools the entire trailer is the upper vents are adjusted to flow in all directions, and the center down vent closed.

Sorry to hear all the troubles with your new unit.  It's unfortunate, but that's what warranties are for...  You are correct, you/we RV buyers shouldn't have to deal with that, especially when paying a premium price.

Have you had a ductless roof mounted AC before?  I agree, they are very loud, but it appears they're all similar from what I can tell - at least the couple that I have had and the many I have been in at shows, etc. I've also had a smaller QS10 and an Aliner with side mounted units which were much quieter.

If you are in the far south and had to run it all the time, I can see how it could drive you nuts.  I keep earplugs by the bed.  

On my 21bhs the slide controller is above the fridge. There is a small access panel screwed to the wall above and to the right of the freezer door.

thanks for the info - I have not opened that panel on my 21RBS but have been hoping that was where it was located.