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I bought this one about 2 yrs ago for my 2015 21RBS.  Fits ok.  It is a little bigger than necessary but not too bad.

Drexel sells a lift kit (I think you can get it through etrailers.com).  It is a bolt on application where spacers are mounted between the existing axles mounts and the axles.

I have two installed.  Just happened to check after owning the trailer for a year.  Both batteries were removed which obviously made them non-operational.  Installed a battery in one because I only had one 9v battery at the time while camping.  Every time we use a small toaster it goes off.  We now open the two top ventilation fans in the trailer and run them at full blast for the brief periods we use the toaster and that seems to keep the detector from going off.

My take is that they are extremely sensitive and in a tight space even more so....

I googled a basic camper wiring diagram utilizing a converter and it appears to be consistent with your situation.  It looks like the A/C coming into the trailer is a pass through into your outlets via the breaker panel.  I think most wiring would have easily handled the voltage difference between 110V and 220v... so my guess is that the core of your AC system (wiring, breakers, distribution panel, etc.) is ok.

Unfortunately, it also means that the 220v got passed through directly through to all your AC operated appliances and anything that was plugged into a 110V outlet.  You may have popped the fuse on the control boards for each of these but probably not since the fuses act on current..... I am guessing that it was a pass through and you have done significant damage to each's appliance's control boards......  This could be anything such as electronic components, relay armatures, etc.  I am guessing you will have to go through each of these and replace the control boards as a minimum until you get it to work..... unless you know an electronics whiz willing to spend a lot of time to troubleshoot.  Even if you do get it fixed on the component level it is likely that you have stressed the remaining components making them susceptible to early failure.  You see this a lot of time in Ham Radio gear that is struck by lightening.  You might be able to fix it by replacing individual components but you can count on further failures as "overstressed" components have shortened lives.

Depending on the sophistication of the converter circuit (and the self protective circuits built in)..... I am guessing that you have converter damage as well (letting out the "magic smoke" will usually do this). This will result in an inability to charge your batteries.

Good luck.  This is recoverable but I would go ahead and budget about $100 for each appliance for repair PARTS and then be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't require it.  There are lots of videos on line for you to perform your own repairs..... this will save you a lot of money and labor charges for repair.  Once you get past the control circuits the actual components in the appliance (compressors, microwave power circuits, heating elements, etc are mostly basic) and since the power was just being hooked up... none of your appliances were running and so none of these basic components were probably exposed to the 220v.

I am still a "newby" on camper electricity; but I do have a lot of experience with electricity and worked in the power industry for many years......  So others can correct me if I am wrong.

Turned on the furnace for the very first time last weekend to provide heat on a cold morning.  Was really surprised that it took so much force to move the switch on top of the thermostat to "on".  Was convinced I was going to end up breaking it.

Looks like it is a typical problem for this thermostat.  I saw one post where someone had "filed down a little plastic bump" to make it easier.  Looks difficult to do.....  is this something anybody else has worried about or come up with a solution?   Has anyone actually broke one of these or despite the force they are durable and I don't need to fix a problem that doesn't exist?

Chagrin......  I responded to the last message based on my old ham radio days where on VHF and UHF frequencies we would use mast mounted preamps (RF amplifiers) at the antenna and then superimpose the DC control voltage to the amplifier on the coax.  A lot of consumer grade antenna preamps work the same way..... I have one I bought from Walmart on my home antenna.  But after looking at a couple of internet threads it appears that some campers have a switch or button that basically turns the control power to the amplified antenna (on / off) and I am guessing that the same switch is used to switch between the two different feeds manually.  I will look for the switch.  Learning more every day.  Sorry for any confusion.

I have the opposite problem.  The amplified antenna on top of the trailer works very well (digital signals).  However the cable connector on the side of the trailer seems sporadic,  Sporadic in that at several campgrounds now when I have hooked up the campground cable connection, the TV scans a mixture of digital and analog channels.  The digital signals are excellent and they all work.  The analog signals are almost all unwatchable but they get more watchable in the higher channel numbers.

The next thing to do is to swap out the cable itself but I am suspicious with one set of channels working and the other not) that it is more likely the connector on the side of the trailer that has corrosion or something going on.....  Or it is possible that it is the TV itself but I kind of doubt it.

Any thoughts?

On your issue, the amplified antenna on top will require an external power source (for the amplifier).  Normally this is accomplished by injecting a DC power signal on top of the coax to the antenna.  A capacitor is on the TV and antenna ends to allow the TV signal through while keeping the DC voltage out of the TV (and stray voltage off the antenna).  The amplifier for the antenna is usually at the antenna base for maximum signal boost without noise.  Depending on the setup, they may choose to isolate the DC from the cable connection as well (you wouldn't want the DC on the cable connection as well) OR there might be some isolation in the splitter box between the two...... the simplest would be a the DC power supply enclosed in a box which sounds a lot like yours with an LED indicator with internal capacitors for isolation on the amplified TV connector ports.  You have any pictures?