My Ampere Adventure in the Pyrenees - and That Unexpected Bear

Started by Ashot, August 07, 2025, 10:49:26 PM

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Ashot

Hello, friends!
It's me, Ashot, your favorite accidental adventurer. This is the story of how I took my trusty electric van — my beloved Ampere — on a grand journey through the French Pyrenees, wandered through charming towns, chased sunsets, and, quite unexpectedly, met a bear on the road to Andorra. Yes, a bear. And no, I wasn't hallucinating from too much coffee.

The Start: Toulouse — My Electric Basecamp
The trip began in Toulouse, the "Pink City" with its terracotta rooftops. I parked Ampere in a cozy camping park on the outskirts — France is a dream for road travelers, especially with well-equipped sites that often feel like small villages. In Toulouse, I stocked up on cheese, baguettes, and a jar of suspiciously spicy mustard. That mustard would later play a role in my survival (but more on that later).

But the real highlight here was joining a walking tour of Toulouse. Strolling through the old streets, listening to stories about the city's history, hidden corners, and architectural gems was pure magic. The guide's passion for the city was infectious, and I found myself falling in love with every brick, every plaza, and every riverside view. If you ever come to Toulouse, this experience is a must.

My first comment on French camping parks? They're organized with military precision. Plots are well-marked, power hookups are ready, and showers actually have hot water — a miracle compared to some of my past trips.

Foix — Where History Meets the Hills
From Toulouse, I drove to Foix, a charming medieval town dominated by its castle perched above the streets. Ampere purred quietly up the hill, and locals turned their heads — not because of my van, but because I had parked it under a walnut tree and the wind kept dropping nuts on the roof. The "drum concert" went on for half an hour before I moved.

Foix's camping park was snug, tucked into a wooded area near the Ariège River. The air smelled of pine, and the silence at night was perfect for stargazing. The downside? French camping neighbors take their aperitifs very seriously, and I was invited for wine at three different tents. By the third glass, I was making deep philosophical speeches about the superiority of electric engines over diesel.

Ax-les-Thermes — Warm Water and Cold Air
Next stop: Ax-les-Thermes, a town famous for its hot springs. The drive was gorgeous — winding roads, waterfalls on the roadside, and occasional cows staring at me as if they'd just seen their first electric vehicle.

Camping options here were decent, though smaller. My spot had a view of the mountains and a faint smell of sulfur from the nearby baths. I soaked my tired legs in a public thermal pool while an old local gentleman explained in rapid French why Andorra was "the best place for cheap alcohol and petrol." I nodded politely, pretending to understand every word.

The Road to Andorra — and the Bear
The morning was crisp and bright when I set off towards the Andorran border. Ampere was fully charged, and I was feeling unstoppable — until about halfway up the mountain pass. That's when I saw him.

At first, I thought it was a large, fluffy cow wandering across the road. But cows don't have such massive paws, or that curious, slow-blinking expression.
It was a bear. A big, brown, Pyrenean bear.


We locked eyes.
I stayed perfectly still inside the van. He sniffed the air, clearly interested in something. That "something" was probably the bag of baguettes and cheese sitting in the passenger seat.

I remembered the mustard. In a moment of questionable logic, I cracked open the jar and waved it near the slightly opened window, thinking the sharp smell might deter him. He sniffed, frowned (or maybe I imagined it), and ambled off into the trees. My heart rate slowly returned to something resembling human.

Crossing Into Andorra — With a Story to Tell
At the border, the customs officer asked if I had anything to declare. I briefly considered saying, "Yes, I just repelled a bear with Dijon mustard," but decided against it. Instead, I rolled through, feeling like a seasoned explorer.

Andorra itself was a mix of towering mountains, shopping streets, and tax-free temptation. I stopped at a camping park just outside Andorra la Vella. It was tidy but crowded, full of fellow travelers with stories of snowy hikes and cheap whiskey. I told my bear story to anyone who would listen. By the third telling, the bear had allegedly grown to twice its actual size.

Back Through the Mountains — Highlights and Reflections
On my way back into France, I made a few more stops:

Saint-Girons — Surrounded by rolling hills, its camping park had the friendliest staff, who gifted me a basket of fresh bread in the morning.

Bagnères-de-Luchon — A spa town where I treated myself to a massage. My back was grateful after days of mountain roads.

Tarascon-sur-Ariège — A picturesque riverfront spot where I found the cleanest camping showers of the trip. Small victories matter.

By the time I rolled back into Toulouse, Ampere's tires had kissed more bends and climbs than I could count. I had met strangers who became friends, eaten more cheese than any nutritionist would approve of, and stared at stars so bright they looked fake.

Traveling the Pyrenees in an electric vehicle was not just doable — it was delightful. Charging stations were more common than I feared, the camping parks were comfortable and well-maintained, and the scenery was worth every winding kilometer. The bear encounter? Well, let's just say it added the perfect dash of wild adventure.

So, if you ever find yourself driving through the French Pyrenees towards Andorra, keep your eyes open — for the views, for the charming towns, and maybe, just maybe, for a curious bear.
Oh, and always carry a jar of strong mustard. Trust me.