Electrical wiring schematic

[LRing]

Our 24 foot Camplite trailer got plugged into 220 volts.  Need help with electrical schematic and recommendations on this type of repair.  Thinking it might be best to haul trailer to northern Indiana so parts are readily accessible to whatever repair shop.  Anyone have a good experience with extensive electrical repair?

[Bejinscbr]

It may have just fried the converter itself. If you are willing to do some work, you could test the appliances by unplugging them from the trailer and testing them with an extension cord. May have gotten lucky and they are okay. For the converter probably an RV shop. Or maybe you know an electrician? They should be able to replace that if you get the parts. Upgrade the converter while you at it.

[LRing]

Still working on electrical problem caused by plugging into 240 volts.  The converter works to convert 120 volts AC to DC.  What doesn't work are all 120 AC appliances and yet the 120 AC outlets DO work.  AC breakers seem ok but haven't been tested.  One of the next steps we hope to try are checking for 120v fuses in appliances such as the refrigerator.  Furnace and refrigerator work on DC but no longer on AC.  Microwave appears dead as there isn't even a light for time on microwave control panel.  Not sure about air conditioner.

Except for 120v outlets that do work, I would think that the AC part of the converter was fried.  We know something got fried as there was enough smoke to set off the smoke detector after trailer was plugged into 240 current.  (Family member got correct 30 Amp femaile outlet for trailer, but used WRONG breaker in his electrical panel.)

Happy to hear from anyone that might have dealt with same or similar issues.

[DaveL]

I googled a basic camper wiring diagram utilizing a converter and it appears to be consistent with your situation.  It looks like the A/C coming into the trailer is a pass through into your outlets via the breaker panel.  I think most wiring would have easily handled the voltage difference between 110V and 220v... so my guess is that the core of your AC system (wiring, breakers, distribution panel, etc.) is ok.

Unfortunately, it also means that the 220v got passed through directly through to all your AC operated appliances and anything that was plugged into a 110V outlet.  You may have popped the fuse on the control boards for each of these but probably not since the fuses act on current..... I am guessing that it was a pass through and you have done significant damage to each's appliance's control boards......  This could be anything such as electronic components, relay armatures, etc.  I am guessing you will have to go through each of these and replace the control boards as a minimum until you get it to work..... unless you know an electronics whiz willing to spend a lot of time to troubleshoot.  Even if you do get it fixed on the component level it is likely that you have stressed the remaining components making them susceptible to early failure.  You see this a lot of time in Ham Radio gear that is struck by lightening.  You might be able to fix it by replacing individual components but you can count on further failures as "overstressed" components have shortened lives.

Depending on the sophistication of the converter circuit (and the self protective circuits built in)..... I am guessing that you have converter damage as well (letting out the "magic smoke" will usually do this). This will result in an inability to charge your batteries.

Good luck.  This is recoverable but I would go ahead and budget about $100 for each appliance for repair PARTS and then be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't require it.  There are lots of videos on line for you to perform your own repairs..... this will save you a lot of money and labor charges for repair.  Once you get past the control circuits the actual components in the appliance (compressors, microwave power circuits, heating elements, etc are mostly basic) and since the power was just being hooked up... none of your appliances were running and so none of these basic components were probably exposed to the 220v.

I am still a "newby" on camper electricity; but I do have a lot of experience with electricity and worked in the power industry for many years......  So others can correct me if I am wrong.

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[florencepugh]

Based on my experience with extensive electrical repair, I found it crucial to consult a professional electrician or specialized repair shop to ensure safety and expert handling of the build now gg complex electrical issue in my 24-foot Camplite trailer.

[gibby]

This is why I have a full EMS protector on my trailer. Low/High voltage, mis-wired etc. chose any of the above for an expensive repair bill.

30 Amp EMS

Paid for itself a couple of times already.

[MiaVardy]

It's essential to find a reputable repair facility that specializes in extensive polytrack electrical repairs to thoroughly evaluate and fix the trailer's electrical system.

[kakocer]

Trailers typically use a power converter/charger that takes 120 volts AC and converts it to 12 volts DC for the trailer's lighting, fans, and other low-voltage systems. The converter is one of the most likely components to be damaged when plugged into 220 volts. KRNL